Longines HydroConquest GMT Review, The Best Attainable Dive GMT

The Best Attainable Swiss Dive GMT Watch

Longines seems to be on a recent string of hits starting with the release of the Zulu Time GMT, a COSC certified GMT watch with aviation inspiration showcasing both the history of the brand while demonstrating its path forward. We quickly saw a sized down and more mass appealing Zulu Time 39mm hit stores followed by the updated Conquest 2023, and now this, the Longines HydroConquest GMT. Utilizing a very similar movement to the Zulu Time packaged in a true diver format to create a compelling piece sitting in a part of the market all to its own. While many may be quick to call out the only other Swiss dive GMT priced below it, the Mido Ocean Star GMT, Longines has introduced something special here that holds its own when compared to watches almost double its price from brands like Tudor or Tag Heuer. Though a price point south of $3,000 may seem intriguing in the category, it is still a large sum of money for most making this a watch that needs its merits stated. With that being said, let's dive into it.

The Facts

Longines claims that this is a 41mm case, which it is if you do not include the crown guards, however factoring those in you have a diameter of 43.7mm paired with a thickness of 13.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 49.2mm. While the thickness is a slight bolstering when compared to the standard HydroConquest model needed to incorporate the new movement, this new model still manages to come in slightly thinner than the previously mentioned Zulu Time. Given its large visual presence, you would expect this watch to have a commanding wrist presence though somehow the watch rides comfortably while wearing slightly smaller than the measurements lead on, due in no small part to the fantastic bracelet and strap options. Set between the odd 21mm lugs you have your choice depending on the model color of a bracelet, a color matched rubber on the blue and black models, or a color matches canvas NATO on the green and brown models. Looking first at the bracelet, a true standout in the price category, solid end links mate to the lugs perfectly following in a well articulated 3 link mostly brushed pattern while tapering down to meet the milled three piece clasp. Vertical brushing covers the clasps top side as a backdrop to the applied winged hourglass logo while standing guard over top of the push button micro adjust underneath. Turning to the rubber, curved end meets the case and lugs sporting a finely grooved surface texture, which adds visual interest though does hold fine debris, tapers slightly before meeting the milled three piece deployant clasp. A centrally brushed surface embossed with the Longines name and winged hourglass logo is bolstered at the edges by small hits of polishing while hiding on its inside a small push button which activates the micro adjust. Though the clasp system does create a significant stack visually, it rides incredibly well without every feeling bulky on its underside. Finally looking at the canvas strap, though well made it is definitely the lesser of the three options, a color matched canvas with canvas keepers follows a traditional format meeting a decorated and polished steel pin buckle. The buckle here does feel somewhat out of place given the overall utilitarian tool watch design language presented though does still have a hint of vintage charm thanks to the texturing applied to its top side. Returning to the case architecture, fine vertical brushing runs along the case side wall before sharply transitioning at a near ninety degree angle to the vertical brushing on the case top except where the lines bend slightly along the crown guards and radial brushing on the case underside. At 3 o’clock, crown guards extend from the asymmetrical case, more reminiscent of the recently released Conquest models than the previous HydroConquest, to protect the slightly shrunked down 7mm crown. Despite being fully polished articulation is easy thanks to the well cut grooves around its circumference before tapering slightly to a dommed top again showing the Longines logo. When unscrewed in the first position rotation handwinds the movement, the second position allows for adjustment of the independent hour hand which needs to advance in order to change the date, and in the third and final position the remaining GMT and minute hand can be altered. Once fully screwed back in the crown pairs with the screw down caseback to help in achieving this watches impressive 300 meters of water resistance, a higher number than most regular divers achieve let alone with a GMT complication. The bezel sits inline with the case body with polished architecture and medium sized grooves that provide grip to articulate the 120-click unidirectional bezel with great action and sound only with a small bit of backplay. A color matched ceramic bezel insert sports a lume pip set inside of a triangle marker at 60 with a 15 minute countdown timer, arabic numerals every 10 minutes, and rectangular markers every 5 minutes in between. This is where the two models begin to depart from each other's design language as the blue and black models lean into a more modern and clean aesthetic while the olive and brown version rely on a more vintage vibe. To help simplify this, let's first take a look at the blue and black models then return to the bezel to go over the olive and brown. White printing stands in stark contrast to the darker bezel surrounding the flat sapphire crystal with an antireflective coating applied doing a fantastic job of leaving the dial beneath unobstructed. An outer ring stepped down from the main dial acts as the GMT 24 hour indicator with arabic numerals marking ever even number. The ring is slip in two colors acting as a sort of am/pm indicator with even the 6 and 18 being split down their center. Coming up to the main dial body, a deep sunray blue or semi gloss black set the backdrop for a printed white minute track running along the outer edge broken up by applied polished hour indices filled with lume. At 3, a framed then faceted date window makes way for the white date wheel beneath. At its center, polished hands reminiscent of a slimmed down snowflake hour hand and sharpened pencil second hand hold their own lume with a painted arrow filled with lume for the GMT hand and a lume filled lollipop second hand. The Longines name and winged hourglass are printed at noon while GMT, Automatic, and 300 meters are painted at 6 with the GMT call out using a color pulled from other accents of the dial to pull together the overall design language. Turning our attention back to the olive and brown dials, a cream colored vintage hue is used on the bezel markers, GMT hours, minute track, applied indices, and lume application. Legibility is slightly better on the black and blue models given the starker contrast between the dail and markers and the same can be said for the Super-LumiNova where they both emit a strong blue hue in low light conditions though the faux coloring does make for a slightly dimmer emission and shorter running time. Powering the HydroConquest GMT is the automatic L844.5 movement, a proprietary movement from ETA made possible by inclusion of Longines within the Swatch Group. Despite being from ETA, this is a far from off the shelf movement as Longines has a dedicated arm of their manufacturing process dedicated to assembling, finishing, and fine tune regulation of these proprietary movements. A very similar movement to the one powering the Zulu Time GMT though lacking the COSC certification, this movement features hacking and handwinding, an independent hour hand making this a true or flyer GMT, and achieves 72 hours of power reserve while operating at 3.5 Hz or 25,200 VPH. Longines also makes note of the improved antimagnetic properties of the movement, alleviating the effect that everyday magnetic objects have on time keeping. Though not sporting the certification, all five models that I was able to have hands on with were tested across five different positions averaging an accuracy of +1 to +5 seconds per day.

My Time

For me, the obvious choice here is to go with either the blue or black model on the bracelet. The clean appearance of the white on blue or black is just easier to read and feel more “high-end” than the vintage lean of the olive and blue. All four dials are great though as the sunburst effect on the blue, olive, and brown dramatically plays in the light while the black uses the bold orange color to add visual flair. The rubber is great and the included clasp, almost identical to those found on Formex models, is better most, but the bracelet is truly a standout. The finishing, articulation, and hidden micro adjust elevate this watch above its price point. The big disappointment is the canvas strap. The fact that the rubber versions come in at the same price point is befuddling given the cheap feeling of the straps pin buckle and the fact that a decent nato will set you back $40 while a great rubber, and this is, will cost you double and that's before you talk about the deployant. My real only complaints, and they are small, come from the bezel where the aforementioned backplay is a bit disappointing and the lack of any overhand or deeper grooves can make rotation a little difficult at times. Otherwise, these are exceptional watches that carry the look and feel of a watch double its price. Pair that with an essentially inhouse movement and what you have here is a watch that not only undercuts the Zulu, but undercuts almost all of the true GMT market. While the MIDO is a tempting proposition at almost ⅓ of the price, the HydroConquest GMT offers a significant upgrade in finishing, movement tech, and in my opinion visual presence that should be compared to watches from the likes of Tudor or OMEGA. As the cycle of watches rotates through, these new Longines HydroConquest GMT models will be ones that I look to compare against in the future and will most likely put up a huge fight to be a steady travel companion for the foreseeable future. Though $2,750 is no small ask, I really can't advocate enough for these watches and hope that more people catch on to what Longines is offering here.

The Basic Specs

Case Diameter: 41mm (43.7mm including crown guards)

Thickness: 13.2mm

Lug-to-Lug: 49.2mm

Lug Width: 21mm

Crystal: Sapphire

Water Resistance: 300 Meters

The Movement

Longines L844.5

Frequency: 3.5 Hz / 25,200 VPH

Features: Hacking & Handwing, Independent Hour Hand

Power Reserve: 72 Hours